Waxed paper works much, much better.
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2 bar clamps hold the level to the plywood, keeping it straight; 4 bar clamps hold the plywood to the center support; four 4-1/2" deep C clamps hold the 2 pieces of blocking in place against the underside of the seat & the sides of the hull; 2 bar clamps reversed as spreader bars push the blocking against the sides of the hull. |
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCH3tRASi2GyiYNWzbq68qEe5x7xVJInTMyUNtq8qilY1i4Ga4aBseb_YnkUIUaAd7w5Uk_IDNCt1NGQyhEgetj1FBiYYlTqogm-4Ch5it_iRQ1Hticvlpnfq_oZY2HlqvF07IGmfNlKYa/s400/IMG_8306.jpg)
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The waxed paper made it MUCH easier to remove the seat once the epoxy had cured, and left no mess to clean up or sand off. |
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Due to the variety of angled lines inside the boat, the seat blocking appears to angle downward. However, I checked, and they are indeed parallel to the keel. |
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Angle measurement on the rear thwart. |
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Angle measurement at the aft end of the keel. |
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Angle measurement at midship on the keel. |
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Angle measurement on the center support for the front seat... |
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...and finally, the angle measurement on the forward seat blocking. Thats consistent enough for me. |
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Heres the topside view of the forward chine that I had to add more material to 2 years ago. (I cant believe it has been that long ago!) |
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Next, before I begin encapsulating the inside of the hull, I plan to add false battens to the outermost sections of the floor, just to keep from standing directly on the plywood. |
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjszOmPtjInMlm0DTnOJ7-L8MCPFkwbduGas0OkcIK0LMYQHzu-nAYsCLUThZf61t7lvjZIKu_Pxs9ciq9zGgML7v2BzYGUw5LX4stVg3Paz1dW4eivmNin6fCk65B2ptYVg_8fXzIkWHiJ/s400/IMG_8317.jpg)
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