The boat is propped up so that the step is 10" higher than the transom.

I made a template of cardboard for the mast step support, and got an excellent fit for this.  Next it is tacked in place with a little epoxy grout.

Great care was take to get the 3 degrees aft and centered.  

Then, epoxy grout is added to the platform supports 3/4 X 3/4 and placed level.  when this sets, I will fillet and tape in place.  

Having a few of these lead weights hanging around has been very helpful during the build.  Wear gloves and wash your hands.  

to date...I have used four disposable chip brushes, lost two when I forgot to clean them.  Also have used about 1 gallon of epoxy to tape and fillet so far, as well as a tub of cabosil style filler.  will need to order more of this next week when I put the keel batten in.  

and...a few hours later.  

It looks as if I may have missed the location by 1/2" too high and forward.  If its an issue, I will spile on a couple of inches to the rear of the step and add some support.  a 3" tube located 17 1/2" on center off the deck will land about 1.75" on center in.  just enough.  In hind sight, This piece could be made a few inches longer without hurting anything.  The most important measurement is from the deck hole to the platform as the mast tube will only be about 22" long when completed.  

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Last night, I assembled the breasthook and stem assembly for my Glen-L Zip. From my previous experience of having built stems and breasthooks for two other boats, I decided to use a different technique this time.

In the past, I would assemble the two pieces of the breasthook and let the epoxy cure. Then, later on, I would attach the completed breasthook to the stem. This time, I assembled all three pieces together at the same time, using only one batch of epoxy.

The reason for doing it this way was to avoid having to deal with the bead of hardened epoxy that forms along seams where the epoxy is squeezed out from between two parts. I’ve learned that it’s a good idea to scrape away any squeezed-out epoxy before it cures by using a small, flexible putty knife. Still, if a bead of hardened epoxy forms on an inside corner, (such as in the notch of the breasthook), it can be difficult to remove. It can also cause problems when you’re fitting pieces together.

By putting all three pieces together at the same time, this problem is easily avoided. 

I decided to assemble the breasthook and stem with the same batch of SilverTip epoxy that I was using to encapsulate limbers and underside parts on the Utility. Not much epoxy was required for this small bit of encapsulation. I had a small amount of #2 silica ready to add to the remaining epoxy when I was done. The Zip parts were disassembled and staged, ready and waiting for the epoxy.

Limbers & underside parts of the Utility needed to be encapsulated before I attach the bottom planking. I wont be able to reach these places once the planking is on.

All the Zip parts set to go: stem, mixing cup for epoxy, kitchen scale in a freezer bag, chip brush, screwdriver, putty knife, awl, small container for #2 silica, mixing stick, rag, and both parts of the breasthook.

After encapsulating some small areas on the Utility, I mixed the silica with the remaining epoxy to thicken it for gluing. I spread this mixture on both mating surfaces of the breasthook and on the top of the stem as well. I used an awl to quickly align the holes on the two parts of the breasthook, and screwed them back together. Then, I fitted the breasthook onto the stem, pressed it down firmly, and used two 2.5-pound weights to hold it down into position. Then I scraped away all the epoxy squeeze-out with the putty knife.

The Zips stem

Stem and breasthook assembled, waiting for the epoxy to cure. These parts are all made from 3/4" marine-grade Douglas Fir plywood.

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I have decided to break with tradition at this point, not wanting to have to turn the hull over four times.
I am going to install the bulk of the interior prior to flipping as many other builders have done.  This means i will put the keel batten, seats, CB trunk in place first.

Step one was to remove the aft bulkhead that was mistakenly installed.  this took 5 minutes with the multi tool.  It cuts through epoxy and glass like butter and is easy to control in a tight space.

Step two was to make the hole in the temporary center bulkhead large enough to get the batten through.  I know I could probably take it out at this point, but it really keeps things rigid.

Step three - cut rough batten to length.

next will be to cut an approximation of the bottom angles onto the batten with a plane.  Will rough out with the electric, then smooth out with the block plane and sandpaper.

August 31 update -
Took the batten stock to the sawhorses and roughed out the cut with the block plane at the stern and the power plane at the bow.  It actually fits pretty good!  This will help minimize how much goop needs to be mixed up to fit the batten.

the batten is anchored at the stern, and supported near that bow so that epoxy grout can be laid for 2/3rds of the length.  

Hole in the temporary bulkhead allows enough clearance for gluing. 

Two heavy bags help to weight down the stern part. 

I did make a HUGE, DANGEROUS, and EXPENSIVE mistake when fitting the batten to the hull.  I have been using chunks of lead, marine batteries, and other assorted heavy objects to make the batten lie flat to the hull.  Then I drilled pilot holes from above, then a smaller pilot hole from below the boat so that the batten would be held firmly and not need extra weight on top while the goop hardened.  I know how easy it is to split fir, so the pilot holes are essential.  During this process while drilling from beneath and into the batten, I accidentally drilled a small pilot hole INTO THE MARINE BATTERY.  My first thought was, "damned, where is this water coming from."  Then the obvious came to mind!  I boogied to get the battery out of the boat, and onto the cement floor, and eventually back into its battery box, where it could drain safely.  Then, after a short clean up of the puddles with gloves on, I wiped all surfaces down with a baking soda paste and rinsed thoroughly.  Battery acid will eat through just about anything metal, cloth, or wood.  I sure hope I neutralized the acid.  A quick note:  when cleaning the acid, it noticeably bubbles when the baking soda contacts it.  Wear long sleeves, eye protection, and rubber gloves.

Will never use a Marine battery for anything other than its intended purpose again.  I hope at least one builder has their skin, eyes, or boat saved by reading this posting.  I admit it was stupid and short sighted.

I will be putting a first aid kit on the wall in the garage, right next to the shelf for eye protection, hearing protectors, and gloves.

Hope to have this part done by Labor Day.  (putting a deadline on anything wont help. oops)

September 2, 2013
I finished putting in the batten today with the help of two volunteers!  Phil and Kenny came over to see what was transpiring and we got to work.  Phil mixed batches of epoxy and handed them to me in the boat while Kenny looked for gaps, drips, and spills.  It took about an hour to get the batten bedded down and held in place by the sheet rock screws (I used longer ones on purpose to ensure they are really in place.  Additionally, if they refuse to budge, I can heat up the end and it will melt the surrounding epoxy for extraction.  At least,  thats the theory.  It was nice to see the epoxy oozing out the sides and the batten was pressed into place.  Phil screwed the sheet rock screws in, while I stood on the batten to hold it flush with the bottom.  I hope to remember to pull the screws out tomorrow afternoon, as it gets more difficult as time goes on.

Kenny is thinking of building a CS 17, so he wanted to see the boat and plans close up.  I hope this was helpful.  At least we got another hand involved,  will reimburse with beer when the time comes.

No updates for a couple of weeks as spare time is limited, but it will involve putting in the stern bulkhead, and deck framing structures.  Seats and centerboard case to come as well.

September 3, 2013
Was able to successfully extract all the sheet rock screws.  going with the longer screw worked better as the helix is not a tightly wound on the make I used.  I did discover that I over filled the area that the centerboard trunk will abut and will need to chip out some epoxy from the batten with the multi-tool.

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on to some other elements of this boat.  The mast step looked to be a bit of a challenge.  Step one was to get the waterline level.

The designer stipulates that to set the craft level, put the bow 10" higher than the transom.  Easier said than done.  As soon as i lifted the boat up in the stern to form the correct distance, the port corner of the transom was 1" lower than the starboard.  Therefore, i used the line dead center between these two points on the transom.

After this was set, I cut a piece of plywood to be the triangular top per the plans.  9 1/8 X 8 xxx.  Low and behold this created a distance of over 24" between the deck level and the mast step.  This would make the mast tube a little short for trimming correctly, and put the rig 3" lower.  Not tolerable.  Additionally, there is to be a 3 degree tilt to the step to get the mast angle correct.  I spent hours working on this problem.  My daughter is a math wizard and confirmed that this equates to a little less than 1" in 20".

I then cut a larger triangle that would sit so the mast tube would be about 21" from the deck. Putting the rig up higher, and providing enough tube to work with.  Then, a trip to the hardware store to get things plumb and angled correctly.  I purchased a cheap bubble level, and a dial protractor.

It took 5 minutes to get the step marked for installation.  total cost $11.  Highly recommended.  

Then, I discovered I had an app on my phone that would do it as well!  Doh!

Will build the support structure for under the step this weekend.  

Due to the high degree of variability with the forward section of each hull during the butterfly, stitch and glue process, I think that each mast step needs to be individually scribed and installed.  

Will double check the deck to step dimensions again tomorrow.  Looks like a finished tube will be 24".  I would like to leave it about an inch or two proud of the deck, then cut the aft half off to provide a little purchase for stepping the mast.  (although, a nice little mahogany box would do the same to receive the base of the mast.  would look cool, and could be trimmed with stainless!  Now were cookin

Hope to flip it this weekend and shape and tape the seams prior to finishing the interior.  

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